8th May 2011,Tingri. The entrance towards the Mt.Qomolangma (Mt.Everest) base camp was blocked by a Chinese Military sentry and we were told to turn back without a reason given.
At a rest stop on our way back, a stranger disclosed to us that the soldiers in the higher mountain base was seen packing up and advise us to wait.
- curious child
- on the way to park entrance
- curious villagers
- rest stop while waiting for the military to clear the mountain
- leaving Tingri
- sharing our break while waiting for clearance
Our patience paid off after two hours.
We will be taking the old road (Rechu check point) to the base camp, being more adventurous, over the recently built paved road to cater to the mass tourism.
The original plan was two riders to a sidecar, as we are not certain of the reliability of this old machine enduring the uncertain terrain, the thin air and the effect of the AMS (Accute Mountain Sickness) on the us.
(As you find out towards the end..It turns out.. well to be a ‘mistake’.
Or wast it ? Depending how you respond to the chain of an events.
If I am expecting a scheduled program, I should hunting for a discounted tour package like a herd.)
Passing through some supposedly isolated village and suddenly we were swamped by children. the noise pollution of the machine must have triggered the curiosity of the otherwise peaceful village. sheltering the community from the burning sun and chilling wind. Other than working on their field seasonally, the harsh weather is just not conducive for any outdoor activity, with exception to swarm the occasional outsider that passes by.
- enchanting landscaope but unforgiving
- prayer flags
- me striking a pose
- our noise pollution awaken the children
- motorcyle is a magnet for curious children
An encounter with the outlying nomads.
While waiting for our stranded support vehicle to be rescued. Under the burning and toasting sun, synthesize with the skin-slicing freezing wind. In this seemingly inhospitable landscape, three wandering nomads approached us.
Sign language was our communicator. Their facial feature suggest they could be related, brothers perhaps. it is very difficult to ascertain their age, like most Tibetan, due to the proximity to the unforgiving sun and the harsh altitude. I could be their elder, by age.
I could match them, if I stayed any longer. By now, my face started bleeding just from the sun burns and laceration from the face scarf that should be protecting me instead, literally slicing my skin layer at a time till the hair pores are bloodied.
- neverending..
- endless roads to the base camp
- even our support vehicle have difficulty
- the conqueror .. or will it able ?
- enchanting but unforgiving at the same time
- dwarf by the mother earth
- nothingness, just us and the mother earth
- still a long way to go…
- even in this inhospitable environment, you will be surprised by their survival presence alone.
Our worst fear came through. The altitude and thin air is taking a toll not just on some of us, but the old machine. Even a passing jeep have its own difficulty crossing a high pass. With still 80km of unknown terrain ahead of us, which will take us another half of day to complete, amid without any incident. There is a high risk of chance we may be stranded and be exposed to the weather element when night falls, in which we are not equipped to overcome. We made a difficult choice and reluctantly turn back.
Well..on the ‘bright side’ , it gives me personally a good excuse to come back!
An unfinished business!
- one man down, one bike down together
- a long way to turn back
- endless road
- where you learn to respect mother nature. she can give as well as she can take
- at the point where the machine and man are conquered..
‘Misadventure is always the most memorable part of an adventure, that’s why I fell for it every time! The other outcome are just what we expected it to be.’ – Wango
The video summary so far…
The next day.. undeterred by our failed attempted to reach the base camp via the old road.
I’m here in Tibet for the first time, and we just have to see the Mt.Qomolangma with my own eyes!
To our reluctance, we just have to do it the tourist way, rented a mini van and took the ‘tourist route’.
Giving our battered steel donkey ample time to nurse and recover.
To a motorcycle adventurist, this is the most enduring and forgettable ride of the whole journey.
The stale air of the 4 wheel metal box and bumpy, window head-knocking ride behind the steer!
I would rather still be soaking in the burning sun, breathing dust and sandblasting my charred face.
- the dreadful tourist route..but oh well..
- first look of the giant
- Rongbuk Monastery near the base, claimed to be the highest monastery in the world.
- ‘Because it’s there!’
- viewpoint of the Himalaya along the route
- serving the possibly the highest hotel in the world
- SONY DSC
Veni, Vici and well.. maybe Vici with a little cheat.
I’ll be back again.. probably, in my own way!
Acknowledgement : A excellent tour arranged by Sidecar Rally China